In Greece, I met 24-year old Sara, a
Singaporean who has traveled many times more than I have. Despite our age
difference, we instantly bonded and could not stop chatting. She was heading to
Santorini after spending a few days in Athens. In Athens, I was willing to play
it by the ear. One night right before falling asleep, she was perched on the
bunk bed above mine.
"Where are you headed
tomorrow?" she asked.
"Hydra", I lied, not sure
if I was going to Hydra after all. "And you?"
"Acropolis."
"Good night Sara."
"Good night sunshine."
I woke up to the creaking sound of
the bunk bed above me, seeing her perched the same way again.
"Do you want to go to Hydra
together?" she asked me enthusiastically. It was past 8 am and the ferry
left at 10. If we were to make it to the ferry, we had to leave in 5 minutes.
So we did, both jumping out of our beds. The hostel had arrangements for an
elaborate Greek breakfast. Fruits, milk, cereals, feta cheese, sausages, salads,
bread, eggs, juice, Greek yogurt, and what not. Being the religious breakfast
eater that I am, I was not going to miss this feast for anything. The good
thing about like-minded travelers like us is, none of us cared for preening and
makeup. We had our priorities right. Food. Metro. Ferry. Hydra. So we ate in
hurry, each grabbing an apple, and took the green line to the Piraeus port. Thankfully,
we got a seat.
We arrived at the Piraeus port and
ran like crazy, arriving four minutes prior to the ferry departing. It was an
expensive 58 € round trip ride, an hour and half each way. We had no idea why
Hellenic Seaways (Flying Cat) was charging us an arm and a leg and a few
kidneys for this trip. Oh, well!
The ride was beautiful and the ferry
stopped at several islands. Ours was the second. I fell in love with Hydra
(enunciated as ee-dra) at first sight. The best thing about this island is that
it is completely free of cars, bikes, and any mode of transportation other than
walking or riding horses. This place is completely pollution free. The air was
so fresh, and the water crystal clear. We walked around the island for a while.
Most of the houses and streets were painted white. On a sunny day like this,
the white reflected sunlight and caused a lot of glare. We were kind of done
with touristy things. So we decided to follow the signs of a trail and go
hiking up a lighthouse that was supposed to have amazing views of the sea.
Huffing and puffing, we set off after
getting a map. It wasn't that bad, maybe an hour and half each way. We passed
by beautiful homes with painted doors leading up to farms with roosters and
orange and lemon trees in people's backyards. I wonder how expensive buying
property in this place would be. Occasionally, horses and mules carrying
passengers and their luggage went past us. The sun was rising higher, and we
were beginning to feel the heat. Panting with our tongues hanging out, we hiked
for an hour, sweating like pigs and looking forward to a promising view of the
sea. The sea was just beginning to show amid a mesh of electrical wires from
the poles. I did not want to pull out my camera yet. We could go a little
higher and then take pictures.
The dirt road forked like a
"Y" at one point. On the left seemed like a possibility to get to the
lighthouse. On the right stood a donkey, a bell around its neck, on a leash in
front of the only house. We paused. The donkey raised its head. Sara was behind
me. As a leader, I decided to ignore the donkey and take the left fork. Maybe
this was a sign that we do indeed need to go left. I don't know.
As we started to inch forward, the
donkey started to walk towards us, the bell making a sound. It was still tied
on a leash, so it could only go so far, stupid donkey. My job was to make my
team avoid the donkey and take the left road. As the donkey walked towards us
some more, I realized with a sinking feeling in my stomach (like the ones I get
during airplane rides, especially during turbulent weather) that the donkey was
not tied to the leash after all. The rope hung loose round its neck. And now,
it started walking towards us quite fast.
Fight or flight? Fight or flight?
Lighthouse or death house? Lighthouse
or death house?
"Shit! Run Sara, run!" I
screamed.
We turned back and scrambled
downhill. I was hoping that the donkey would stop in a little bit. But it
charged us full on, the bell a warning that it is moving fast now, perhaps a
death knell and not a bell. I am running, and I am thinking. Do I need to run
faster than the donkey? Or do I just need to run faster than Sara? Or do I just
need to think fast for an alternate strategy to outsmart a donkey?
Involuntarily, I stopped and picked a
stone.
"No don't threaten the
donkey" Sara screamed. "Don't make it angry."
She made sense.
Sara was getting out of breath. But I
had no time to catch my breath. The worst that could happen to me is death by a
donkey. If it kicked me, I'd be rolling down the hills. I'd die instantly. What
if it was a friendly donkey and just wanted to be petted? What's wrong with you
sunshine, it's a donkey, not a dog. It was making weird sounds from its
nostrils. Even if my theory was true, I'd die of trauma anyway if the donkey
came and licked me. If it bit me, would I get rabies? Kick, lick, bite. I did
not want to choose anyone. I did not rise up to the highest position in the
evolutionary tree to be trampled over by an equine. For all the hullabaloo I
make about not liking running, I have never run faster in my life, my
sympathetic nervous system on full throttle.
We ran for a lifetime, billowing
white dirt on the dusty trail. We could still hear the bell which means it was
still running after us. What took us the last 20 minutes to climb, we were back
there in less than five minutes. I mentally thanked God that we were running
downhill and not uphill. I mentally also made a note of losing 50 pounds, in
case I had to run for my life uphill in the future.
We stopped at one point when I was
convinced that the donkey was far enough. Terrified, we looked behind us. The
donkey was standing there, right at the entrance of the road, guarding it and
daring us to cross the entrance again. I had no desire to test my luck again.
I was really angry by this time. Look
at Shrek's donkey, it was anything but lethal. There was no way I was going
back that way again. We met a few fellow hikers coming down a different
direction. We asked them how far they hiked.
"Two hours from here."
"Did you get a good view?"
I asked, still hopeful.
"Yeah, lots of ruins."
There was no way I was hiking 2 more
hours in the scorching heat to see some ruins instead of a breathtaking view of
the sea. We decided to head back. We were supposed to finish our hike and eat
the apples from the breakfast. Instead, we went down to the foothill where all
the shops were and ended up binging on the not so healthy ice creams and yogurt
with fruits and nuts. My heart was somehow beating normally again. I was not
going to risk being killed by a stupid donkey.
Instead, we sat by the water like two
retired people, waiting for the ferry. We settled for looking at the birds and
the bees and the half-naked Greek Gods with sculpted bodies jumping into the
nearby pools. The sight of those rippling muscles and toned abs managed to
transform me to the days of reading Mills & Boon. Perhaps there was no
lighthouse for me that day, but there was definitely some light at the end of
the tunnel.
We took the ferry and came back to
Athens. Sara got off to see the Acropolis. I had no more energy to see the
ruins. So I came back to the hostel for a power nap.
sunshine